A menu that reads like poetry. n/naka, the restaurant holding the most Michelin stars awarded in Los Angeles, is a perfect example. Chef Niki Nakayama transcends the traditional simplicity of dining, compelling you to forget where you are. Losangeleska.com shares more about the restaurant, its acclaimed chef, and the books she has inspired.
n/naka
This is a MICHELIN Guide restaurant that consistently lands on lists of the best places to eat in Los Angeles. Located at 3455 S. Overland Ave, n/naka offers Japanese and contemporary cuisine.
The space is decorated in neutral, understated tones, making it one of L.A.’s warmest and most sophisticated dining rooms. Chef Niki Nakayama offers guests her interpretation of modern Kaiseki, a form that leans on Japanese tradition while forging its own path.
Guests experience an intricate procession of seasonally inspired dishes that showcase a unique Californian influence. The menu features offerings like house-made saké, aromatic broths, sashimi, and heartier dishes such as grilled fish with sansho pepper.
One of n/naka’s most popular dishes, which never leaves the menu, is the masterfully twirled al dente spaghetti topped with delicate abalone, marinated cod roe, and black truffle. This dish is a prime example of Chef Niki Nakayama’s unconventional approach.
The History of n/naka
The restaurant opened in 2011. It succeeded in expanding local palates, redefining Californian cuisine, and inspiring a new generation of restaurants. Witnessing such rapid development and success, it’s natural to want to know more about its founding story and the talented Niki Nakayama, the restaurant’s chef and owner.
After opening in the Palms neighborhood of Los Angeles, the restaurant regularly served fewer than 10 people a night, even though the space was designed for many more. Nakayama recalled that in those years, diners were excited about pork belly and molecular gastronomy. They weren’t interested in a refined Japanese tasting menu.
This didn’t stop Niki Nakayama. She continued to work toward her dream. Furthermore, she prepared most of the dishes alongside her wife, Carole Iida-Nakayama.
Niki Nakayama
This wasn’t the chef’s first foray into the restaurant business. She had already run the successful Azami Sushi Cafe on Melrose Avenue, which she sold to finance n/naka. Niki Nakayama managed to purchase the building on Overland Avenue outright. She used the remaining budget to equip the kitchen and dining area.
The restaurant opened in April 2011. While Angelenos were familiar with Japanese restaurant menus, kaiseki was largely unknown. This refers to a traditional Japanese multi-course dinner. Kaiseki (or kaiseki-ryōri) is considered the equivalent of Western haute cuisine.
This lack of public awareness didn’t stop Nakayama from trusting her instincts. She continued to serve kaiseki in her restaurant. In her view, the classic Japanese cooking techniques—steaming, frying, simmering, and grilling—are specifically chosen to unlock the true flavor of each ingredient in the 12-course meal.
The Restaurant’s Ups and Downs
As mentioned, Niki cooks alongside her wife, Carole. Working together daily blurs the lines between their personal and professional lives. With every service and season, the restaurant gained the trust and loyalty of Los Angeles residents and visitors. Since 2011, n/naka has faced its share of challenges.
- Netflix Fame. This refers to the series “Chef’s Table,” which premiered in 2015. The series was Emmy-nominated. In it, culinary stars from around the world revolutionize fine dining with their innovative dishes. The first season introduced viewers to Niki Nakayama and her award-winning restaurant, n/naka. The chef presents kaiseki dishes with passion, creativity, and professionalism. This series brought the restaurant global acclaim, skyrocketing demand.
- The Return of Michelin. When the Michelin Guide returned to Los Angeles in 2019, n/naka was awarded two Michelin stars. This was further confirmation of its high class and professionalism. The restaurant and its entire staff must constantly improve to maintain these high standards.
- The Uncertainty of the Pandemic Era. This was a severe test for the restaurant industry. In 2020, n/naka, like other restaurants, was forced to close during the lockdown. This led to financial losses and uncertainty about the future. The owners managed to survive this challenge thanks to the restaurant’s reputation and loyal clientele. After restrictions were lifted, the restaurant resumed operations.
Redefining Californian Cuisine
n/naka gained national recognition, becoming known as a premier kaiseki restaurant outside of Japan. Angelenos were introduced to kaiseki and, in the process, rethought traditional Californian cuisine. Members of the city’s restaurant community agree: n/naka changed the L.A. dining scene forever.
Other chefs noted what an incredible risk Nakayama took, as no one in Los Angeles was offering a kaiseki-style tasting menu at the time. In 2013 and 2014, restaurant critics Jonathan Gold and Besha Rodell published glowing reviews, vaulting n/naka to the top of the city’s dining scene and cementing it in the L.A. lexicon.
Local Ingredients
A key principle of kaiseki is integrating the surrounding environment by sourcing local ingredients. Angelenos might be interested to know that Nakayama and her wife grow about 45% of their produce in their own backyard in Culver City. Up to 80% of their total ingredients are sourced from various parts of the U.S.
Betty Hallock, former deputy food editor for the Los Angeles Times, highlighted Nakayama’s enthusiasm for her ingredients. She treats them with care at every stage of the process. Despite its Japanese traditions, the menu is structured in a way that feels distinctly Californian. The chef uses not only seasonal produce but also herbs, something you wouldn’t typically see in Japan.
Refined Japanese Dining
If Angelenos thought high-end Japanese food just meant expensive nigiri before n/naka, that changed after 2011. Every dish honors both Japanese kaiseki traditions and the chef’s Japanese-American heritage. The preparation follows the Japanese tradition of “ichi-go ichi-e,” or “cherishing a single moment in time that will never happen again.”
The chef shared how valuable the experience proved to be. She didn’t need gilded chairs or an overwhelming number of courses to open her business and succeed. The n/naka experience inspired other chefs to think beyond existing restaurant concepts.
A Book About Niki Nakayama
Niki Nakayama was born and raised in Los Angeles. It is her hometown, one she strives to help develop.
In 2021, the book “Niki Nakayama: A Chef’s Tale in 13 Bites” was released, written by Debbi Michiko Florence and Jamie Michalak, and illustrated by Yuko Jones. The book tells the story of the famed Japanese-American chef and her accomplishments.
